Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Fascinating Fox



Foxes are small-to-medium-sized, omnivorous mammals belonging to several genera of the family Canidae. Foxes are slightly smaller than a medium-size domestic dog, with a flattened skull, upright triangular ears, a pointed, slightly upturned snout, and a long bushy tail (or brush).

Fox species differ in fur color, length, and density. Coat colors range from pearly white to black and white to black flecked with white or grey on the underside.

Outdoor Enclosure

The enclosure should be in a safe location.  Your pet fox will need to be sheltered from the elements as well. Consider your chosen location carefully, it should have a windbreak and a source of shade; if either of these things is lacking, you will need to provide them.

The enclosure can be made from a large outdoor dog kennel or two being put together. Another alternative is to use chain link fencing or small square fencing.

Most species are small enough at this point to squeeze through the holes in many types of fencing. The general rule of thumb is if the animal can fit its head through, assume it can squeeze its body through. Also foxes are good climbers so your enclosure needs to have a roof.

Special care must be taken when deciding what type of flooring to use in your fox's outdoor enclosure. They are natural diggers, so it is up to you to make sure that they do not dig out.  For a permanent enclosure, you can use a poured concrete floor.  Another common and highly effective floor strategy is to bury chain link or similar fencing under a thick layer of natural non treated mulch. This allows for great drainage, but also prevents dig-outs and escapes.  You can also bury heavy paving stones under a thick layer of dirt and natural non treated mulch to prevent dig-outs.

Try to keep their outdoor enclosure similar to what their natural habitat would be in the wild. Provide different smells and textures outdoors, such as wood, sand, dirt, rocks, gravel, and hay. They don't have to all be in the pen at the same time. Introducing new items periodically will help keep your fox entertained.

Foxes also love to climb, dig and chew, so be sure to have items in the pen that the animal can safely chew on. You may want to provide your fox with items to climb upon and a section to dig in.  You can also use chew toys that are animal safe for your fox as well.

Indoor Enclosure or Play Pen

If keeping a fox as a pet and you want an indoor/outdoor pet, then here are some tips. You will need an indoor kennel or play pen for your fox. They can run around the home as well, but must be supervised. If you are too busy to watch them then you can put them in their indoor pen.

The indoor kennel should have some type of bedding or box for it to hide in. A litter box is also a good idea. Be sure the indoor pen also has chew toys and thing to play with to keep your fox entertained.

Housebreaking is best accomplished by using a litter box. The size and type of box will depend on the species of fox you have. Use a very thin layer of litter as foxes do not bury their waste.
It is advisable if you are able to connect the indoor and outdoor enclosures via a doggie door. This gives the fox the opportunity to choose if they want to be inside or out.

Feeding

Feeding your fox is relatively easy. Foxes are omnivores and eat a variety of food in the wild.  The 
primary source of his food should be a good quality dog food (meat should be the first ingredient).
Kits should be started on puppy food. As the kit reaches around a year of age, you can slowly switch to adult dog food or leave it on puppy food. You can also feed a combination of the two depending on activity level of your pet. If your fox starts getting chunky, gradually reduce the amount of puppy food and increase the amount of adult food. In some cases, it may be easier to feed them a dog food intended for all life stages.

Be sure to supplement your fox's food a few times a week with a variety of veggies, eggs, meat*, and fruit (don't overfeed fruit because of the sugar content). For meat be sure to use real meat such as chicken, turkey, fish, and red meats like venison or beef. Do not use overly processed mystery meats like hotdogs or spam. Do not give foxes pork or pork based products or treats either.

In addition to pork, things such as chocolate, raisins, grapes, onions, avocados, caffeine, and alcohol are also off limits. If in doubt as to whether a food is safe for your pet, don't feed it. If it is not safe for dogs, don't feed it to foxes. It's also not a good idea to feed road kill or mice due to the diseases they may carry.

Handling

For the first 6 months of your fox's life are the most important for socialization. Pick up and handle your kit as much as possible, even if just for a few minutes at a time. Get them used to a safety/breakaway collar (if desired), harness, leash, and grooming (bathing, nail clipping, and brushing fur and teeth) as early as possible.

If you choose to take your fox for walks, you must get it used to this when it is young. Don't attempt to start taking an adult on walks for the first time. It is way too stressful and they can injure themselves. A harness is much more safe and secure than a simple collar for walks. Some people keep a collar on all the time. Keep an ID tag on both the collar and harness.  Also the rabies tag should be on the collar or harness as well. Using a harnesses in bright colors--usually red, blue, or green, to stand out against the foxes’ coat. The more obnoxious the shade, the more it will be seen. You want it to be obvious from far off that this fox is a pet.

Please be aware that many dogs have a powerful instinct to attack foxes, so you must always use caution when walking your fox anywhere dogs might be. Never walk your fox off its leash no matter how well-trained. Foxes are not dogs and might run away without warning if scared or enticed by something. Walk your fox often as foxes must be continually re-exposed to situations like this, otherwise they have a tendency to become fearful of it in a very short time. 

Foxes will love having toys to play with. Plushies, ropes, squeaky toys, baby rattles, dangling and spring cat toys, and similar things will give your fox something to do. Just make sure your using the proper toys and to supervise playtime. In order to teach your fox which items are acceptable to play with, you can smear a small amount of peanut butter on the toys and give praise for playing with them. Take away any items your fox is not supposed to have. It is important to never hit or yell at your fox. Another successful training method is using a gentle spritz of water from a spray bottle when teaching the word "no" to foxes. As a kit reaches its "teenage" years, around 6 months or so, it will go through a rebellious phase which can be difficult to handle. This will pass but you need to be patient and never psychically hurt your fox or yell. Foxes are not dogs and they do not inherently trust people at all. With a fox trust can be hard to gain and easy to lose.

You must earn a fox's affection and trust through patience, kindness, time, and consistency. You have to find a way to bond with them. Talk to them, mimic their sounds when they talk to you, and if safe to do so, handle them often. Not all foxes like to be petted or held no matter what you try. I know it can be frustrating, but respect their personality and let them come to you. Don't force yourself on them.

Additional Information

Use caution when having an adult fox in your home with other pets. Foxes, like any animal, can be unpredictable. They are opportunistic feeders and might eat smaller pets such as birds, fish, rodents, kittens, and small breed puppies. Never leave a fox unattended with these kinds of animals. You should also be careful introducing any new pet into a house with an adult fox. It's not uncommon for some foxes to dislike another animal for no apparent reason.

Foxes will bond with each other for life. A mated pair is most common, but sometimes siblings, same-gender, and even another species of fox or animal can cause a fox to form a very strong attachment. Removing one of them can lead to severe depression in your fox and they may become lethargic, depressed and even refuse to eat.

Remember, when you choose to bring a fox into your home it is a responsibility for the rest of that animal's life. They will often bond with one person very strongly. Severing the bond can cause a fox to become very depressed and sometimes aggressive. It is for this reason that it is often impossible to rehome a pet fox. If you no longer want your fox, then you should contact a rescue. They cannot be released into the wild. It's illegal and they will not survive and also might be carrying illness that could drastically impact wild populations. So be sure you are ready to dedicate the time, money, and patience required before you decide to get a fox.
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  • Vocalization
The fox's vocal repertoire is vast:

Whine- Made shortly after birth. Occurs at a high rate when cubs are hungry and when their body temperatures are low. Whining stimulates the mother to care for her young; it also has been known to stimulate the male fox into caring for his mate and cubs.

Yelp- Made about 19 days later. The cubs' whining turns into infantile barks, yelps, which occur heavily during play.

Explosive call- At the age of about one month, the cubs can emit an explosive call which is intended to be threatening to intruders or other cubs; a high pitch howl.

Combative call- In adults, the explosive call becomes an open-mouthed combative call during any conflict; a sharper bark.

Growl- An adult fox's indication to their cubs to feed or head to the adult's location.

Bark- Adult foxes warn against intruders and in defense by barking.

In the case of domesticated foxes, the whining seems to remain in adult individuals as a sign of excitement and submission in the presence of their owners.

Also it is very important to find a vet who is not only willing to treat your fox but is also knowledgeable. At the very least make sure your vet has connections with another vet that has had experience with foxes.

If you’re interested in getting a Fox as a pet, please visit my website and contact me: http://draconisbroker.wix.com/danimalbroker






Thursday, February 11, 2016

The Entertaining Emu



The emu is the largest bird native to Australia and the second largest bird in the world. The emu is a member of the ratite family, as are ostriches, rheas, kiwi and cassowary.

Scientific Name:           Dromaius Novaehollandiae
Type:   Bird
Diet:     Omnivore
Size (H):           1.5m - 1.9m (4.9ft - 6.2ft)
Weight: 18kg - 60kg (40lbs - 132lbs)
Top Speed:       40km/h (25mph)
Life Span:        12 - 20 years
Lifestyle:         Flock
Color:  Black, Grey, Brown
Skin Type:       Feathers
Favorite Food:  Fruit
Habitat: Open grasslands with bushes close to water
Average Clutch Size:    11
Main Prey:       Fruit, Seeds, Insects, Flowers
Distinctive Features:     Enormous body size and large eyes

Emus can grow to nearly 6 feet tall and they have extremely soft feathers. Emus are flightless birds mainly due to their enormous size, which means that they are just too heavy to fly. Emus are very nomadic animals which means that they rarely stay in the same place for long. This travelling lifestyle means that the emu can make the most of the food that is available. Emus are known to have traveled long distances in order to find food.

Emus have long necks and long legs in comparison to their body type & size. The long, flexible legs of the emu ensure that the emu is able to run at high speeds. They generally run at around 25 mph, however they are able to reach a top speed of 30 mph in short bursts should they need to get away quickly from a dangerous situation like a predator.

They are very gentle birds and can become very friendly, depending on how they are raised. Although you should be advised, they do have sharp claws that could really hurt a person if you try to catch them and they are not the friendly type or if they are sick or injured.

Housing:

You should have a fairly large fenced off area for Emus to be able to move around and exercise. Fences should be tall enough to prevent the emus from escaping over the top.  If an emu gets spooked for any reason, they will attempt to jump the fence.  The minimum height should be about 6 – 7 feet high, use fencing that is safe such as chain link or cattle link types.  This is so the emu won't get their head stuck, tear its feathers or skin. If using china link, make sure to use double knuckled wire. The emu could cut their neck and die using the type that is barbed.  Place the fence posts on the outside of the fence as well.

Emu's generally walk the fence line.  This behavior is quite normal.

Emu's require some type of shade as well and protection from harsh weather.  They must have some type of shelter, preferably three sided. The shelter should also have straw, hay or another type of soft bedding. I do not recommend using cedar chips at all.

Food:

Emu's are Omnivorous which means they can consume both plants and animals. The adult Emu can consume large quantities of green vegetation, fruits, berries, vegetables, insects and lizards.

  •  Feeding an Emu Chick

For the first few days, the egg yolk nourishes the chick.  Water should be given to the chick on the second day.  Vitamin B and electrolytes can be added to their water to prevent possible deficiencies. 

This should be used for a minimum of two weeks.

By the 4th day, you can offer the emu chick some chopped greens and vegetables in addition to the starter crumbles from your farm store.  The feed should NOT be over 16% protein and should be well fortified with vitamins and minerals.  DO NOT get the type of feed that has any medication in it. 
The chicks should be fed twice a day.  It is best to not place the feed under the heat lamp as, the heat could destroy valuable vitamins and other nutrients. 

Whenever changing feed types, always do this gradually. When the chicks are ready for a different type of feed, start to slowly add it into the current feed until they are fully switched over and the old feed is gone.

If supplementation of calcium is necessary, utilize a mineral containing both calcium and phosphorus. It is best to never give shell to Emus until they are adults.

Emu chicks require plenty of fresh water. This is important, because the water carries all the nutrients to every part of the body in addition to cooling and detoxifying the body of the chick.

  •  Feeding Adult Emus

Emus will mostly eat a feed called "Ratite feed". However, you must be careful when buying feed for emus or any other ratites, especially at a young age.  Make sure the feed is fresh and in-date.

Once you purchase the feed, stick to the same brand. This is very important mostly at a young age. If you have young emus under 6 months, then you should feed them ratite grower first. If you cannot find the ratite feed, then you can use the turkey or game finisher (not the starter).

The food choices to feed adult emu are greens, such as kale, lettuce, cabbage, and spinach. You can also give them carrots, corn, and other vegetables that are high in fiber. Alfalfa pellets can also be fed to emus.  This is a safe feed and is high in fiber.

Another good idea is to grow rye grass in their pen. As a snack, Emus love fruits, apples & pears should be sliced thin.  Hand feeding these treats is a great way to tame your emu as well.

Emus must have fresh food and water daily. Vitamins and electrolytes should be added to the water once a week during the summer months.

Other Info:

Emus can be kept with other livestock if introduced properly and at a young age.

Emu are vocal, the emu has a pouch in its throat that is part of the bird's windpipe and is used for communication. When the pouch is inflated, the emu can make deep booming, drumming, and grunting sounds. These calls are usually made during courtship and the breeding season, heard up to 1.2 miles (2 kilometers) away. They may hiss to warn off predators or other threats.

If interested in purchasing an Emu or Emus of your own, please feel free to visit Draconis Animal Brokers website: http://draconisbroker.wix.com/danimalbroker




Thursday, February 4, 2016

The Darling Dingo


The dingo (Canis lupus dingo) is a free-ranging dog found in Australia.

Description

The Dingo has intense eyes that vary in color from yellow to orange. The small rounded ears are naturally erect. The well furred, appearing bushy, tail is relaxed and has good length. The hindquarters are lean and muscular. The coat is soft. Its length, density, and texture vary according to climate. Typical coat colors are yellow-ginger, but can occur in tan, black or white, including an occasional brindle; albinos have also been seen. All purebred Dingoes have white hair on their feet and tail tip. Unlike most other breeds, Dingoes do not have dewclaws.

The average Australian dingo is 20 to 24 in tall at the shoulders and measures 46 to 61 in from nose to tail tip. The average weight is 29 to 44 lbs.

Training

Obedience training is best accomplished by kindness, patience, and a firm but gentle hand. Dingoes can be kept as pets if they are taken from the litter before 6 weeks of age. At this young age they can be tamed. They are said to be able to perform agility and general obedience. The Dingo has some ability to climb trees.

Housing

The Dingo is not recommended for apartment life. They are a type of wild dog that if taken into a family, must not be chained up in a backyard. They should be taken in as part of the family. A securely fenced enclosure is a must. A Dingo will need activity and space. As pets they should not be taken off the leash in parks.
The Dingo is an undomesticated animal that should get plenty of exercise. When in captivity they need to be taken on a daily, long walk or jog, to satisfy their natural migration instinct, where the dog is made to heel beside or behind the person holding the lead, never in front, as in a dog's mind the leader leads the way and that leader needs to be the human.

The dingo chooses a mate for life, so keep that in mind if you plan to have more than one Dingo.

Grooming

The Dingo's weather-resistant coat takes care of itself. But a light brushing or bath occasionally is okay. This breed has no doggie odor.

Life Expectancy

Can live to be over 20 years of age if properly cared for.

If interested in the purchase of a Dingo, please feel free to email me or visit my website.