Fascinating Fox

Foxes are small-to-medium-sized, omnivorous mammals belonging to several genera of the family Canidae. Foxes are slightly smaller than a medium-size domestic dog, with a flattened skull, upright triangular ears, a pointed, slightly upturned snout, and a long bushy tail (or brush).

Fox species differ in fur color, length, and density. Coat colors range from pearly white to black and white to black flecked with white or grey on the underside.

Outdoor Enclosure

The enclosure should be in a safe location.  Your pet fox will need to be sheltered from the elements as well. Consider your chosen location carefully, it should have a windbreak and a source of shade; if either of these things is lacking, you will need to provide them.

The enclosure can be made from a large outdoor dog kennel or two being put together. Another alternative is to use chain link fencing or small square fencing.

Most species are small enough at this point to squeeze through the holes in many types of fencing. The general rule of thumb is if the animal can fit its head through, assume it can squeeze its body through. Also foxes are good climbers so your enclosure needs to have a roof.

Special care must be taken when deciding what type of flooring to use in your fox's outdoor enclosure. They are natural diggers, so it is up to you to make sure that they do not dig out.  For a permanent enclosure, you can use a poured concrete floor.  Another common and highly effective floor strategy is to bury chain link or similar fencing under a thick layer of natural non treated mulch. This allows for great drainage, but also prevents dig-outs and escapes.  You can also bury heavy paving stones under a thick layer of dirt and natural non treated mulch to prevent dig-outs.

Try to keep their outdoor enclosure similar to what their natural habitat would be in the wild. Provide different smells and textures outdoors, such as wood, sand, dirt, rocks, gravel, and hay. They don't have to all be in the pen at the same time. Introducing new items periodically will help keep your fox entertained.

Foxes also love to climb, dig and chew, so be sure to have items in the pen that the animal can safely chew on. You may want to provide your fox with items to climb upon and a section to dig in.  You can also use chew toys that are animal safe for your fox as well.

Indoor Enclosure or Play Pen

If keeping a fox as a pet and you want an indoor/outdoor pet, then here are some tips. You will need an indoor kennel or play pen for your fox. They can run around the home as well, but must be supervised. If you are too busy to watch them then you can put them in their indoor pen.

The indoor kennel should have some type of bedding or box for it to hide in. A litter box is also a good idea. Be sure the indoor pen also has chew toys and thing to play with to keep your fox entertained.

Housebreaking is best accomplished by using a litter box. The size and type of box will depend on the species of fox you have. Use a very thin layer of litter as foxes do not bury their waste.

It is advisable if you are able to connect the indoor and outdoor enclosures via a doggie door. This gives the fox the opportunity to choose if they want to be inside or out.

Feeding

Feeding your fox is relatively easy. Foxes are omnivores and eat a variety of food in the wild.  The 
primary source of his food should be a good quality dog food (meat should be the first ingredient).

Kits should be started on puppy food. As the kit reaches around a year of age, you can slowly switch to adult dog food or leave it on puppy food. You can also feed a combination of the two depending on activity level of your pet. If your fox starts getting chunky, gradually reduce the amount of puppy food and increase the amount of adult food. In some cases, it may be easier to feed them a dog food intended for all life stages.

Be sure to supplement your fox's food a few times a week with a variety of veggies, eggs, meat*, and fruit (don't overfeed fruit because of the sugar content). For meat be sure to use real meat such as chicken, turkey, fish, and red meats like venison or beef. Do not use overly processed mystery meats like hotdogs or spam. Do not give foxes pork or pork based products or treats either.

In addition to pork, things such as chocolate, raisins, grapes, onions, avocados, caffeine, and alcohol are also off limits. If in doubt as to whether a food is safe for your pet, don't feed it. If it is not safe for dogs, don't feed it to foxes. It's also not a good idea to feed road kill or mice due to the diseases they may carry.

Handling

For the first 6 months of your fox's life are the most important for socialization. Pick up and handle your kit as much as possible, even if just for a few minutes at a time. Get them used to a safety/breakaway collar (if desired), harness, leash, and grooming (bathing, nail clipping, and brushing fur and teeth) as early as possible.

If you choose to take your fox for walks, you must get it used to this when it is young. Don't attempt to start taking an adult on walks for the first time. It is way too stressful and they can injure themselves. A harness is much more safe and secure than a simple collar for walks. Some people keep a collar on all the time. Keep an ID tag on both the collar and harness.  Also the rabies tag should be on the collar or harness as well. Using a harnesses in bright colors--usually red, blue, or green, to stand out against the foxes’ coat. The more obnoxious the shade, the more it will be seen. You want it to be obvious from far off that this fox is a pet.

Please be aware that many dogs have a powerful instinct to attack foxes, so you must always use caution when walking your fox anywhere dogs might be. Never walk your fox off its leash no matter how well-trained. Foxes are not dogs and might run away without warning if scared or enticed by something. Walk your fox often as foxes must be continually re-exposed to situations like this, otherwise they have a tendency to become fearful of it in a very short time. 

Foxes will love having toys to play with. Plushies, ropes, squeaky toys, baby rattles, dangling and spring cat toys, and similar things will give your fox something to do. Just make sure your using the proper toys and to supervise playtime. In order to teach your fox which items are acceptable to play with, you can smear a small amount of peanut butter on the toys and give praise for playing with them. Take away any items your fox is not supposed to have. It is important to never hit or yell at your fox. Another successful training method is using a gentle spritz of water from a spray bottle when teaching the word "no" to foxes. As a kit reaches its "teenage" years, around 6 months or so, it will go through a rebellious phase which can be difficult to handle. This will pass but you need to be patient and never psychically hurt your fox or yell. Foxes are not dogs and they do not inherently trust people at all. With a fox trust can be hard to gain and easy to lose.

You must earn a fox's affection and trust through patience, kindness, time, and consistency. You have to find a way to bond with them. Talk to them, mimic their sounds when they talk to you, and if safe to do so, handle them often. Not all foxes like to be petted or held no matter what you try. I know it can be frustrating, but respect their personality and let them come to you. Don't force yourself on them.

Additional Information

Use caution when having an adult fox in your home with other pets. Foxes, like any animal, can be unpredictable. They are opportunistic feeders and might eat smaller pets such as birds, fish, rodents, kittens, and small breed puppies. Never leave a fox unattended with these kinds of animals. You should also be careful introducing any new pet into a house with an adult fox. It's not uncommon for some foxes to dislike another animal for no apparent reason.

Foxes will bond with each other for life. A mated pair is most common, but sometimes siblings, same-gender, and even another species of fox or animal can cause a fox to form a very strong attachment. Removing one of them can lead to severe depression in your fox and they may become lethargic, depressed and even refuse to eat.

Remember, when you choose to bring a fox into your home it is a responsibility for the rest of that animal's life. They will often bond with one person very strongly. Severing the bond can cause a fox to become very depressed and sometimes aggressive. It is for this reason that it is often impossible to rehome a pet fox. If you no longer want your fox, then you should contact a rescue. They cannot be released into the wild. It's illegal and they will not survive and also might be carrying illness that could drastically impact wild populations. So be sure you are ready to dedicate the time, money, and patience required before you decide to get a fox.

·        

• Vocalization

The fox's vocal repertoire is vast:

Whine- Made shortly after birth. Occurs at a high rate when cubs are hungry and when their body temperatures are low. Whining stimulates the mother to care for her young; it also has been known to stimulate the male fox into caring for his mate and cubs.

Yelp- Made about 19 days later. The cubs' whining turns into infantile barks, yelps, which occur heavily during play.

Explosive call- At the age of about one month, the cubs can emit an explosive call which is intended to be threatening to intruders or other cubs; a high pitch howl.

Combative call- In adults, the explosive call becomes an open-mouthed combative call during any conflict; a sharper bark.

Growl- An adult fox's indication to their cubs to feed or head to the adult's location.

Bark- Adult foxes warn against intruders and in defense by barking.

In the case of domesticated foxes, the whining seems to remain in adult individuals as a sign of excitement and submission in the presence of their owners.

Also it is very important to find a vet who is not only willing to treat your fox but is also knowledgeable. At the very least make sure your vet has connections with another vet that has had experience with foxes.

If you’re interested in getting a Fox as a pet, please visit my website and contact me: http://draconisbroker.wix.com/danimalbroker

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fox

http://foxrescue.weebly.com/pet-fox-care.html

http://www.thepetfox.net/p/pet-fox-care.html

The Entertaining Emu

The emu is the largest bird native to Australia and the second largest bird in the world. The emu is a member of the ratite family, as are ostriches, rheas, kiwi and cassowary.

Scientific Name:           Dromaius Novaehollandiae

Type:   Bird

Diet:     Omnivore

Size (H):           1.5m - 1.9m (4.9ft - 6.2ft)

Weight: 18kg - 60kg (40lbs - 132lbs)

Top Speed:       40km/h (25mph)

Life Span:        12 - 20 years

Lifestyle:         Flock

Color:  Black, Grey, Brown

Skin Type:       Feathers

Favorite Food:  Fruit

Habitat: Open grasslands with bushes close to water

Average Clutch Size:    11

Main Prey:       Fruit, Seeds, Insects, Flowers

Distinctive Features:     Enormous body size and large eyes

Emus can grow to nearly 6 feet tall and they have extremely soft feathers. Emus are flightless birds mainly due to their enormous size, which means that they are just too heavy to fly. Emus are very nomadic animals which means that they rarely stay in the same place for long. This travelling lifestyle means that the emu can make the most of the food that is available. Emus are known to have traveled long distances in order to find food.

Emus have long necks and long legs in comparison to their body type & size. The long, flexible legs of the emu ensure that the emu is able to run at high speeds. They generally run at around 25 mph, however they are able to reach a top speed of 30 mph in short bursts should they need to get away quickly from a dangerous situation like a predator.

They are very gentle birds and can become very friendly, depending on how they are raised. Although you should be advised, they do have sharp claws that could really hurt a person if you try to catch them and they are not the friendly type or if they are sick or injured.

Housing:

You should have a fairly large fenced off area for Emus to be able to move around and exercise. Fences should be tall enough to prevent the emus from escaping over the top.  If an emu gets spooked for any reason, they will attempt to jump the fence.  The minimum height should be about 6 – 7 feet high, use fencing that is safe such as chain link or cattle link types.  This is so the emu won't get their head stuck, tear its feathers or skin. If using china link, make sure to use double knuckled wire. The emu could cut their neck and die using the type that is barbed.  Place the fence posts on the outside of the fence as well.

Emu's generally walk the fence line.  This behavior is quite normal.

Emu's require some type of shade as well and protection from harsh weather.  They must have some type of shelter, preferably three sided. The shelter should also have straw, hay or another type of soft bedding. I do not recommend using cedar chips at all.

Food:

Emu's are Omnivorous which means they can consume both plants and animals. The adult Emu can consume large quantities of green vegetation, fruits, berries, vegetables, insects and lizards.

•  Feeding an Emu Chick

For the first few days, the egg yolk nourishes the chick.  Water should be given to the chick on the second day.  Vitamin B and electrolytes can be added to their water to prevent possible deficiencies. 

This should be used for a minimum of two weeks.

By the 4th day, you can offer the emu chick some chopped greens and vegetables in addition to the starter crumbles from your farm store.  The feed should NOT be over 16% protein and should be well fortified with vitamins and minerals.  DO NOT get the type of feed that has any medication in it. 

The chicks should be fed twice a day.  It is best to not place the feed under the heat lamp as, the heat could destroy valuable vitamins and other nutrients. 

Whenever changing feed types, always do this gradually. When the chicks are ready for a different type of feed, start to slowly add it into the current feed until they are fully switched over and the old feed is gone.

If supplementation of calcium is necessary, utilize a mineral containing both calcium and phosphorus. It is best to never give shell to Emus until they are adults.

Emu chicks require plenty of fresh water. This is important, because the water carries all the nutrients to every part of the body in addition to cooling and detoxifying the body of the chick.

•  Feeding Adult Emus

Emus will mostly eat a feed called "Ratite feed". However, you must be careful when buying feed for emus or any other ratites, especially at a young age.  Make sure the feed is fresh and in-date.

Once you purchase the feed, stick to the same brand. This is very important mostly at a young age. If you have young emus under 6 months, then you should feed them ratite grower first. If you cannot find the ratite feed, then you can use the turkey or game finisher (not the starter).

The food choices to feed adult emu are greens, such as kale, lettuce, cabbage, and spinach. You can also give them carrots, corn, and other vegetables that are high in fiber. Alfalfa pellets can also be fed to emus.  This is a safe feed and is high in fiber.

Another good idea is to grow rye grass in their pen. As a snack, Emus love fruits, apples & pears should be sliced thin.  Hand feeding these treats is a great way to tame your emu as well.

Emus must have fresh food and water daily. Vitamins and electrolytes should be added to the water once a week during the summer months.

Other Info:

Emus can be kept with other livestock if introduced properly and at a young age.

Emu are vocal, the emu has a pouch in its throat that is part of the bird's windpipe and is used for communication. When the pouch is inflated, the emu can make deep booming, drumming, and grunting sounds. These calls are usually made during courtship and the breeding season, heard up to 1.2 miles (2 kilometers) away. They may hiss to warn off predators or other threats.

If interested in purchasing an Emu or Emus of your own, please feel free to visit Draconis Animal Brokers website: http://draconisbroker.wix.com/danimalbroker

http://www.sybilsden.com/caresheet/emus.htm

http://animals.sandiegozoo.org/animals/emu 

The Darling Dingo

The dingo (Canis lupus dingo) is a free-ranging dog found in Australia.

Description

The Dingo has intense eyes that vary in color from yellow to orange. The small rounded ears are naturally erect. The well furred, appearing bushy, tail is relaxed and has good length. The hindquarters are lean and muscular. The coat is soft. Its length, density, and texture vary according to climate. Typical coat colors are yellow-ginger, but can occur in tan, black or white, including an occasional brindle; albinos have also been seen. All purebred Dingoes have white hair on their feet and tail tip. Unlike most other breeds, Dingoes do not have dewclaws.

The average Australian dingo is 20 to 24 in tall at the shoulders and measures 46 to 61 in from nose to tail tip. The average weight is 29 to 44 lbs.

Training

Obedience training is best accomplished by kindness, patience, and a firm but gentle hand. Dingoes can be kept as pets if they are taken from the litter before 6 weeks of age. At this young age they can be tamed. They are said to be able to perform agility and general obedience. The Dingo has some ability to climb trees.

Housing

The Dingo is not recommended for apartment life. They are a type of wild dog that if taken into a family, must not be chained up in a backyard. They should be taken in as part of the family. A securely fenced enclosure is a must. A Dingo will need activity and space. As pets they should not be taken off the leash in parks.

The Dingo is an undomesticated animal that should get plenty of exercise. When in captivity they need to be taken on a daily, long walk or jog, to satisfy their natural migration instinct, where the dog is made to heel beside or behind the person holding the lead, never in front, as in a dog's mind the leader leads the way and that leader needs to be the human.

The dingo chooses a mate for life, so keep that in mind if you plan to have more than one Dingo.

Grooming

The Dingo's weather-resistant coat takes care of itself. But a light brushing or bath occasionally is okay. This breed has no doggie odor.

Life Expectancy

Can live to be over 20 years of age if properly cared for.

If interested in the purchase of a Dingo, please feel free to email me or visit my website.

DraconisBroker@gmail.com

http://draconisbroker.wix.com/danimalbroker

Patagonian Cavy

About the Cavy:

Patagonian Cavy, Patagonian Mara, Patagonian hare, Dolichotis patagonum weigh between 18-35 lbs. and are about 18 inches tall. The lifespan of a Cavy is roughly 14 years.

They are large rodents who are distant relatives to guinea pigs and somewhat resemble a cross between a rabbit and a small deer. They have small, compressed feet that make them resemble hooves from a distance, and longer ears resembling those of a rabbit.

They are a very social animal something that should be given considerable thought before acquiring a Patagonian cavy. In the wild they live in small groups of 15 - 35 often forming a lifetime bond with a single mate. So if you want a cavy pet you should get at least 2.

They are from Argentina and enjoy shrub covered lowlands. They are herbivores meaning they eat grasses, vegetables and fruits.

Cavies are more of a farm animal than a house pet. If you have the proper space and time to care for this kind of exotic pet, then you should have no problems.  You must also understand that they are not 100% able to be potty trained, so having them as an indoor pet is not recommended.

If you choose to have one as an indoor pet, then here are some tips:

·         They have a tendency of voiding near their food. Which makes for easy training. Put their toilet area near their food dishes. Watch to see where they go in relation to the food dishes and place the litter box where they have voided.

·         Never use cedar or pine as a litter box material or bedding material it is toxic. Use paper litter or just ripped up newspapers. You can use one of the dog potty mats with newspapers works exceptional well or a litter box that has had the sides removed.

·         While in the house they will have to be supervised or have an indoor dog kennel.

·         If you choose to you can take them out in public, make sure you halter and leash train the cavy; they do startle easily.

Diet:

Patagonian cavies eat a variety of vegetables, fruits, grasses, and some commercially prepared rodent food. Dark, leafy greens, fresh hay, alfalfa and grass should make up the bulk of the herbivore's diet. You can also add fruit to the diet.

Housing:

Patagonian cavies dig so an enclosure that is lined with heavy wire sunk underground several feet or lined with concrete is absolutely necessary so your pet doesn't dig out of the enclosure.

They need access to the outdoors so usually an enclosure about 10 feet by 10 feet with indoor and outdoor areas is used to allow access to grazing and relief from the elements. Patagonian cavies are not suited for cold weather so heating lights should be provided in the winter if you do not have an enclosure for your pet.

Also since they are rodents they will need items they can chew on preferably wooden toys or items.

Behavior:

If raised from a young age and hand-tamed, these large cavies can be friendly pets. They can be quite skittish and although they are typically active during the day.

Patagonian cavies are known to be quiet pets making little noise. They do not have a habit of being biters. Although they do make a variety of vocalizations, much like that of a guinea pig.

Cavies will use urine and anal marking. This is common in both sexes and if you have a pair of cavies you will probably see them marking each other.

Health Concerns:

Of course like guinea pigs there are numerous diseases that Patagonian cavies can get but some illnesses and problems are more common than others in this pet.

Due to their long, skinny legs, fractures are not uncommon, along with teeth issues like many other herbivores have. Other common issues include heart and gastrointestinal troubles. Your cavy should be checked out at least annually by an exotics vet and have a fecal screening performed to make sure your pet doesn't have any intestinal parasites.

http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art176164.asp

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/unconventionalpets/a/Patagonian-Cavy.htm

How About A Bushbaby?

Galagos /ɡəˈleɪɡoʊz/, also known as bushbabies, bush babies, or nagapies, are small, nocturnal primates native to continental Africa.  This species is a very small primate which has an average size of approximately 5 inches (13 cm).

The bush baby has long, fuzzy wool-like fur which can be either a shade of silvery gray or brown. Their ears are very large with four ridges which allow them to bend back easily and wrinkle up. They also have characteristically large eyes. Other interesting characteristics of this species include its advanced hearing, thickened pads on its toes to allow it to cling and climb safely and also its second tongue. This second tongue is situated below their normal tongue and is used specifically in conjunction with their front teeth for grooming.

The bush baby is especially well known for its amazing jumping abilities. In fact, this species can jump up to 6.6 feet (2 m) in the air

Housing:

The bigger the cage the better.

If possible, create an outdoor primate enclosure with a heated indoor cage (If heat is needed).

A cage can never be to secure, don’t underestimate primates, they are strong and intelligent.

When building your primate enclosure, keep safety in mind. Primates are very curious animals, and safety is important.

A double entry door is needed in the enclosure as well.

Many primates show signs of boredom in captivity, therefore it’s very important that you change their environment from time to time.  Try to use a lot of different items in their home and switching it up now and then.

Here a few suggestions:

Outdoor

Branches

Leaves or grass floors

Trees and bushes

Swings

Platforms

Rocks

Pond

Indoor

Branches

Peat, sawdust, straw, dried leaves and wood chip floors

Tree trunk

Swings

Tires

Wooden nest box

Coconut shells

Mirrors (unbreakable)

Ladders

Plastic pipes

Baby toys

Dog toys

You must clean indoor cages every week. Droppings and excess food should be removed daily.  

Some primates are known to scent mark their environment, for these monkeys it’s very important that you do not sterilize their cage at once. It is best to clean the nest box and the cage at different times.  Use a mild disinfectant to clean their cage.

When building an outdoor cage don’t forget to provide some shade in the summertime and protection from wind and rain such as covering a part of the cage with a roof or solid walled area. Never use chicken wire for a cage. Depending on the specie use stainless steel welded wire or chain link.  Don’t forget that primates are very strong animals so a chain link of approximately 12 gauge strength should be used.  A safety entrance to prevent primates from escaping is a must.

Not only the width and length of a cage is important but also the height of the cage can be very important.  Even small species prefer higher cages, this makes them feel more secure, therefore it’s also very important that the next box is placed as high as possible.  The minimum height of a cage for most species is about 6 feet high (1.80m).

Most primates need unfiltered sunlight (vitamin D3) for their skeletal development, so if you don’t have an outdoor cage maybe it’s more than a good idea to use Vita-Lites (replicate natural sunlight).

The choice of floor type is also very important. You can use a drop tray, peat, sawdust, straw, dried leaves or wood chip floors for smaller cages.  Larger cages are probably better off with cement floors, floors covered with linoleum, kitchen or bathroom floors.  Some people raise their cage high enough from the ground (wire bottoms) for easy raking cleanup underneath.  This will also prevent a monkey from reaching for food or other items fallen onto the soil.

When creating a natural environment with lots of plants, don’t forget to use non-toxic plants.  

Here are a few examples of non-toxic plants: bamboo, rubber tree, willows, palm trees, elm, fig, hibiscus, pine, elder and silverberry.

Toxic plants like American oak tree, cedar, mistletoe and pencil tree should never be used.

Don’t forget to use branches in your in- and/or outdoor cage. Natural gum is very rich in vitamin D and Calcium and therefore recommended for most primates.  However, beware in spring when the gum is young, it may cause intestine problems.

Diet

In the wild bushbabies are primarily insectivorous, but they also eat Acacia gum, fruit, flowers, eggs, seeds and nectar. 

The recommended diet for bushbabies should consist of:

2-5% Eggs

5-10% Crickets/Mealworms

15-20% Fresh Fruit and Vegetables

75-80% Hi Pro Monkey/Cat Chow

A varied diet is very important to avoid boredom and loss of appetite.

You can use commercial primate diet supplemented with:

insects like mealworms, crickets and grasshoppers

chopped fruit like mango and apple

nuts

yoghurt

cat food

Arabic gum

vitamin supplements

and don’t forget:  Fresh water every day at all times.

Is your home ready for a new pet? Helpful tips for your new addition.

Many of us want a new pet, but we may forget that we also have to pet proof our homes. It's easy to get caught up in purchasing a pet and getting supplies or toys. Here is some helpful advice on pet proofing for various pets.

For our four legged friends, it is recommended to do an All Fours Inspection.

Try to get into the mindset and think like your pet to get a sense of what might be dangerous to them. The best way to start this is by taking "a pets’ eye-view" of things. You have to put yourself in your pet's place—and get down on all fours—to take a look around. Make sure you inspect areas that your pet can access by way of climbing or jumping as well. You may be very surprised at the dangers that a periodic inspection of your home can reveal.

Here are some hazards to look for during your All Fours Inspection:

•Look for any choking, strangulation, electrocution, and suffocation hazards. Keep window cords short or tied up away from the floor area. Try to unplug or cover wires and electrical cords that may be easily found and chewed on.

•Don't leave human foods or medications where pets could get to them. Eliminate "steps" that curious pets can climb to access elevated areas like countertops and tabletops. Discard or close off access to perishable trash daily to keep pets from rummaging through it.

Some helpful tips for trash are as follows: To keep trash odors low use baking soda and a tight-fitting lid. Perhaps have a trash can with a foot pedal.

•Make sure any indoor plants are varieties that are pet-safe. If you need info about safe houseplants for pets, please go to ASPCA's database of Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants.

•Pets can often learn to open low cupboards. Consider latching them shut. Keep rooms where dangerous items may be off limits to your pet.

•If you have an outdoor pet beware of things like antifreeze or other toxic substances used on vehicles or homes. drop. Keep these items stored in a latched cabinet or on a high shelf, and use it carefully, cleaning up any drips or spills immediately.

•Keep your toilet lid down, especially if you use automatic bowl cleaners, to eliminate risk of poisoning. Keeping the lid down also eliminates a drowning hazard.

•Cats and windows can be hazardous. If you open windows, make sure that screens are sturdy and properly installed. Window guards are not adequate protection for cats, who can easily fit through the bars. Always keep an eye on your cat when it is near an open window.

Making Space

Some animals will sneak into an opened dryer (or other small, dangerous places) the first chance they get. It is important to give them their own space and you won't have to worry about them seeking refuge where they don't belong. A hazard-free zone, should include a cozy bed or hide, water source, and safe toys to play with.

Other things to consider are a sink to wash feeding bowls, and adequate storage for accessories.

Remember that well-exercised pets are less likely to get into trouble, and more likely to rest well at night instead of asking for attention. (Unless they are nocturnal animals) If it's possible try to create a pet area in an extra room or back door area. You could include a pet door to access a fenced-in yard, corral, or animal run so that they can head outdoors at their leisure.

Litter boxes should be placed away from feeding areas and in a place that are more private, but not too isolated. If your pet doesn't feel safe or comfortable using a litter box, then it won't.

If you're not home for most of the day due to work, you may have some other concerns: 

Consider a pet fountain or refilling water bowl so that fresh water is readily available. Leave your pet with an item of clothing you no longer need but have worn so that they have your scent with them when you’re not around. Have sturdy toys that won't break to reveal small parts. Interactive treat toys made of high-impact plastic will keep your pets occupied and stay in one piece. If your pet is especially curious, consider crate training him or blocking off a small, safe area with a baby gate.

If you have an older pet here are some tips. Elderly pets should be given an area on the ground level, and pet pads should be accessible in case of accidents. Consider placement of ramps to furniture if you allow your elderly pet on them.

Pet Safe Flooring and Fabrics

Try to use fabrics and flooring materials that are Stylish yet easy to clean. Such as easy-care leather or ultra suede can be wiped clean and won't be dramatically affected by wear. Crypton Super Fabric is a synthetic germ- and stain-resistant option made with pet owners in mind. It's available in a variety of custom colors and patterns and the Crypton online store offers couture pet beds, "Throver" furniture covers, and decorative pillows.

Honestly, carpet isn't the best choice for pet owners, but if you must go wall-to-wall, choose a color that matches your pet (it'll mask pet hair) with a performance rating of 3.5 or higher. For lightweight dogs, hardwood with adequate urethane finish is a common and easy-clean choice. For heavier dogs, ceramic tile or another nonporous hard surface flooring would be best. Here are some other Pet-Friendly Flooring ideas

Clean Living

Groom your pet often and you'll also spend less time cleaning house.

Regular nail clipping keeps scratch damage down, while regular brushing keeps hair in the brush instead of everywhere else. Brush before and after a wash to keep drain-clogging hair to a minimum. Vacuum at least twice a week. Some vacuums are made specifically for animal hair (such as the DC17 Animal Vac by Dyson) and designed especially for homes with pets.

If your pet has an accident on the furniture or carpet, you'll have to become a master at stain removal and disinfecting. Monitor your pet so accidents can be handled promptly. The longer a stain sits, the harder it'll be to remove, and your pet will be more likely to sniff out the same spot for a repeat offense. Look for special cleaning products with natural enzymes to break down stains and odors. Finally, pay attention to flea and tick prevention and control. If the pests are on your pet, then odds are flea eggs, pupae, and larvae are in your carpeting, bedding, and yard. Treat your home, yard & pet at the same time to prevent re-infestation.

Feeding Time

When buying pet food, you have to store it appropriately to avoid contamination and slow the vitamin and nutrient degradation process. First always check for tears in food packages before you buy them. Assign a clean scoop or small container for scooping. Leftover wet food to be refrigerated and dry food should be stored in its original bag, then placed in a clean, food-grade plastic container, and stored at 80 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Placing the bag in a container will also keep unwanted insects and rodents away.

Storing bulk food in large trash cans in the garage is a fairly common practice, but this exposes food to temperature extremes in a container that can leach dyes and additives into food over time. Make sure you purchase the proper pet food storage container.

The Yard

If you let your pets out into the yard, flea and tick prevention isn't your only concern. You'll have to determine whether you need to build or add structures, install invisible fences, and identify toxic plants in your landscape.

Small Animals:

Hamsters

•Tend to be active at night and asleep during the day. For that reason, you'll want make sure your pet's exercise wheel isn't a squeaky one.

•Provide at least 2 inches of bedding to allow for normal burrowing behavior. Use shredded tissue or paper, or clean processed corncob. Commonly used cedar chips are associated with respiratory and live disease in rodents.

•Always clean cages and refresh bedding at least once a week.

•Many hamsters must be kept in cages by themselves after the age of 10 weeks. Adult females are especially hostile to one another, so do your homework before you consider housing more than one together.

Guinea Pigs

•Their bodies cannot produce Vitamin C, so you'll have to supplement it with an appropriate product from your pet supply store.

•Guinea pig's teeth grow constantly, so chew toys are essential.

Rabbits

•They actually learn litter box habits quickly and easily.

•They also like to chew so they need chew toys as well.

•They may hide in small, dark spaces for comfort.

•When you allow your pet time out of his cage for exercise, consider cord protectors, securely cover ducts and vents, and always locate your pet before sitting down and opening and closing recliners.

Birds

•Cage placement is very important: Keep the cage away from windows and radiators to protect your bird from drafts and direct exposure to heat. Many birds prefer to have a safe corner to back into, and if a cage is placed away from walls or toward the center of a room, it can make your pet feel insecure. Cage placement away from windows also means your bird won't always be anxiously guarding itself from "predators".

•In the wild bird’s perch and take cover, so be sure to provide these opportunities in their cages. Your bird's foot should wrap around approximately 2/3 of each perch and toes should never meet and overlap. Irritation, injury, and infection may result if perches are too small.

•Kitchens are a common place for pet-owners to keep their bird cages. Be aware that birds have very sensitive respiratory systems, and fumes emitted from overheated nonstick cookware or chemical cleaners could be fatal.

•Do your homework when looking for pet birds: Some species, require companionship while others will do fine on their own.

Fish

•Though fish are widely considered the most "disposable" of pets, you can greatly reduce tank mortality by creating the ideal water conditions for the type of fish you have. Required temperatures and pH levels depend upon the kind of fish you have. Research the requirements of your breed and monitor their conditions periodically.

•When adding new fish to your tank, consider the types of fish you already have. Some species may be aggressive or even attempt to eat other fish.

Reptiles & Amphibians

Reptiles tend to have very long life spans. The most common misconception is that they are easy to care pets that don't require much attention. The truth is, their habitats require constant monitoring, and they are among the most hazardous pets to keep in a home. Some things to keep in mind:

•Salmonella is present in 90% of all exotic reptiles, and they shed it in their feces. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling your pet or cleaning its habitat.

•Do your homework to discover your reptile's temperature requirements. You'll need primary (under tank heaters) and secondary heating sources (basking lamps) to meet those requirements, and you'll need to check tank temperature and humidity regularly.

•Be careful not to overheat your pet. Signs you should adjust your habitat temperature include your pet staying in shaded areas and hiding from the heat. Lizards may visibly pant like a dog.

Frogs

•The most common habitat for frogs is semi-terrestrial, i.e. half land, half water.

•Do not use tap water in your habitat, as frogs are very sensitive to chemicals. Dechlorinate tap water by letting it sit for at least 24 hours before adding it to the tank.

•Don't house multiple frogs together unless they are the same species and are similar in size. Otherwise, you risk exposing the animals to toxic counterparts, or species that may attempt to eat the others in your tank.

•Frogs often ingest small rocks in order to help them digest the insects they eat. They then will defecate the rocks out.

•It is important to clean the tank & wash the rocks at least once a week.

Turtles

•They can live up to 25 years or more, and depending on the species, turtles can range in size from 4 inches to 80 inches. Make sure you know how big your species can get, and plan the habitat accordingly.

•Turtles like hiding places, so make sure you include them in the habitat. You can purchase materials from a pet store, or use plants or driftwood.

•Most turtles need a semi-terrestrial, i.e. half land, half water habitat.

Tortoise

•They can also live up to 25 years or more, and depending on the species, can range in size from 8 inches to 5 feet. Make sure you know how big your species can get, and plan the habitat accordingly.

•They will need a hiding place as well, so make sure you include them in the habitat.

•The need a dry tank as they do not swim. They do however need a small water bowl.

Snakes

•Most people believe they must feed live animals to their snakes. This is a misconception, use pre-killed or frozen prey for it is safer. Prey shouldn't be wider than the widest part of your snake's body.

•Some species such as large constrictors are to be kept in a lockable habitat with solid walls and door. These snakes are very intelligent and can learn to escape out of the enclosure so a good lock is needed.

•If you have a large snake and you let is free roam your home for exercise be sure to keep an eye on it. These animals are incredibly fast. Make sure there are no small animals or children around, as they may be looked at as prey items.

•State permits may be required to keep a snake in your home. This may depend on species type, check your local laws before you bring a snake home.

What about Armadillos?

Usually when you think of getting a pet you think of a cat or dog, maybe even a bird, fish, rabbit or other small animal from your local breeder or pet shop.  But what about something a little different, like say an Armadillo?

Closely related to anteaters and sloths, armadillos generally have a pointy or shovel-shaped snout and small eyes. They vary widely in size and color, from the 6-inch-long (15-centimeter-long), salmon-colored pink fairy armadillo to the 5-foot-long (1.5-meter-long), dark-brown giant armadillos. Others have black, red, gray, or yellowish coloring.

Contrary to popular belief, not all armadillos are able to encase themselves in their shells. In fact, only the three-banded armadillo can, curling its head and back feet and contorting its shell into a hard ball that confounds would-be predators.

Diet

Armadillos in the wild are found foraging in the early morning and evening for beetles, ants, termites, and other insects. They have very poor eyesight, and utilize their keen sense of smell to hunt. Strong legs and huge front claws are used for digging, and long, sticky tongues for extracting ants and termites from their tunnels. In addition to bugs, armadillos eat small vertebrates, plants, and some fruit, as well as the occasional carrion meal.

In captivity if your pet armadillo is still a baby, you will need to feed it kitten formula through an eyedropper or syringe with a nipple attached. It is important not to over-feed a baby armadillo, as this can lead to health problems and might even cause death.

An adult armadillo, on the other hand, can maintain a healthy diet by eating moist cat food. Also, in addition to its usual food, an armadillo should have a varied diet, since it naturally has one in the wild. Other foods that you can feed to your adult armadillo include fruit, grubs and worms.

Other considerations

Providing access to water, shelter and space. Most species dig burrows and sleep prolifically, up to 16 hours per day. The armadillo keeps cool and gains exercise from swimming in water, so it is important to have water nearby, like a pond or wading pool. Most species prefer to burrow and sleep prolifically, up to 16 hours per day. So you will need a makeshift burrow or an enclosed bed for it. Also a pet armadillo will need its space, so an overcrowded home can cause it to fight.

Temperature

Armadillos live in temperate and warm habitats, including rain forests, grasslands, and semi-deserts. Because of their low metabolic rate and lack of fat stores, cold is their enemy. When the weather is cold, the armadillo will need a warm place to stay as it normally lives in warm habitats and does not fare well in the cold. So, if the armadillo is usually kept outside, you should bring it inside during cold weather.

Somethings to remember (that might surprise you):

- Armadillos are excellent climbers.

- Armadillos are excellent jumpers and can jump 2-3 ft into the air.

- Armadillos quickly become tame and will come and lick your feet.

- Armadillos are very strong which needs to be consider when choosing housing. (my run around the house as he please)

- Armadillos are not destructive. Despite the claws they seldom do any damage to anything besides plastic bags. Plastic bags are irresistible if you are an armadillo and must be brought back to your nest.

- Armadillos (most) Do not dig if provided a hiding place. (unless kept with soft dirt in which case the instinct to burrow takes over)

- Armadillos gets along nicely with dogs. At least the ones I have kept. The dogs seem to consider them weird puppies.

- Armadillos become more and more day active as they become more secure in their environment.

- Armadillos love a dog pillow and will pork out on them and sleep like a big.

- Armadillos do not like to be wet but enjoy a mud puddle during warm days. (If they are secure enough to come out during the days).

- It is normal for armadillos to not come out during rainy days. In the wild they do not lie rain but come     out to feast afterward.

Always make sure you know where the armadillo is. It is very easy to by mistake close them into a seldom used room or closet if you do not make sure that it hasn’t snuck in while you had the door open. This is especially important if you let your armadillo run loose as it might be common not to see the little guy for a couple of days and getting stuck in a room without food for that time might cause problems.

http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/armadillo/

http://www.wisegeek.com/how-do-i-care-for-a-pet-armadillo.htm

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforum/showthread.php?t=85468